Part Three: Cochabamba, Bolivia

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At my request to taste some traditional Bolivian cuisine before I left, the cooks had prepared plato paceno, a national vegetarian dish enjoyed throughout Bolivia. It consists of fresh hot choclo, corn, cooked on the cob, which is draped with a generous slab of grilled hot, melty, squeeky-textured fresh queso blanco cheese, served accompanied by boiled papas, potatoes, and freshly cooked habas, broad beans. It was wholesome and delicious.

Over lunch, my host Ranga Puri regaled us with stories of  Cochabamba life. Apparently Cochabamba was a city of gourmands, seriously dedicated to the eating experience. It was famous for hosting more overweight people than anywhere else in Bolivia. It was not uncommon, explained Ranga, for a working man to demand breakfast at 6.00am – not a snack, but a full plate. At 10.00am he would eat a full mid-morning meal, then lunch, then again a full meal at 4.00pm, and of course dinner at night. I looked dubious, but Ranga assured me this was true. I asked him about the statue of Christ that overlooks the city. He explained that it was built as a miniature version of the giant one in Brazil's Rio de Janeiro.

Cochabamba, surrounded by gentle sloping mountains on all sides. is famous for its fertile soil and mild inviting climate. Long known as Bolivia’s second city, it has been knocked into third place by the booming Santa Cruz. Nonetheless, Cochabamba remains a progressive and economically active city with a growing population of over ½ million of Bolivia's 8 million people. The city is warm dry and sunny, welcome relief after the chilly Altiplano. Local abundant fruits are grown in the Cochabamba Valley.

After a relaxing and informative luncheon, we drove to the home of Teresa Sierra who had graciously invited me stay for two nights at her parents’ home. Teresa also gave me a brief description of the city. Apparently Cochabamba has one of the most pefect climates in the world, with average summer temperatures of 80 degrees F and winter temperatures of 60 degrees F. It's a perfect medium between the cold desolate Altiplano and the humid, tropical areas of Santa Cruz. The city's nickname is 'El Ciudad Jardin', the Garden City. Many foreigners retire here due to its climate and relaxed ambiance.  

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